Food News, with Christine Rutter

"IT'S JUST duck in red wine," said Billy Reid, being extremely modest about his finely-honed culinary skills.

Billy, who comes from Burnley, is now head chef at Marco Pierre White's L'Escargot restaurant in London.

He has been back in East Lancashire to show off his skills by serving up some of his renowned dishes in a series of dinners at Accrington and Rossendale College's Horizons Hotel and Restaurant.

For someone so accomplished in his craft, he is a master of understatement.

His unassuming nature belies his obvious talent and the ambition needed to reach his position.

"He is being really modest," said Neil Hogg, head chef of Horizons, in Accrington.

"He is the best. He has reached the top of the tree."

Explaining his modesty, Billy said: "The more elaborate you make things, the more chance you have of falling flat on your face. I don't want to put myself in an arena to be eaten by lions. I want to put myself in an arena, holding the lions."

Playing down his skills may give him control over critics but he doesn't really need a safety net. He returned to his old training ground, the catering department of Accrington and Rossendale College, to prepare a gourmet dinner with students. Students' aspirations are boosted working with such highly-acclaimed chefs - and it gives the public a chance to sample top restaurant food they would not normally be able to afford.

Billy's menu for the dinner at Horizons was:

COD AND CHIPS: A neat Lancashire twist to the menu. A miniature ensemble of moist cod in crispy batter scattered with French fries and drizzled with a tomato sauce, delicately spiced and hotly seasoned. The sauce elevated this icon of fast food into the gourmet class and showed how regional food tastes survive by adapting rather than drowning in wider influences.

CREAM OF CELERIAC SOUP WITH TRUFFLE OIL: An impeccable, no-nonsense soup, silky smooth but retaining texture and bite.

BREAST OF GOOSNARGH DUCK: A closed fan of duck breast laid on a pyramid of roasted radish, grated carrot and potato, surrounded by crunchy shallot torpedoes floating in an intoxicating red wine sauce. The rich, strong flavour of the duck meat was nicely contrasted by the wine's sharp fruits.

PEACH MELBA: A rather elegant, light and tasty dish. A pastry basket was filled with good-quality vanilla ice-cream, dressed with peach and raspberries and covered with an exquisite caramel netting. Meticulous work. The labour was reflected in the flavour.

The next dinners in the series are October 24 and November 28. To book call 01254 602020.

Gandhi curries favour with diners

CURRY connoisseurs are being given a history lesson as they munch through their tandoori by the new owners of an Indian restaurant. Abdul Hannan knew just what he was going to call his business when he discovered Indian hero Mahatma Gandhi (left) visited Darwen 66 years ago. Pictures of the famous leader clad in a loincloth, sandals and cotton shawl are featured all over the recently refurbished Shantee Indian Restaurant, in Duckworth Street, Darwen - now called the Gandhi Restaurant.

He said: "Our family are from India so we know all about Gandhi's life. Using his name seemed the natural thing to do when a customer told us about his visit. We've had a really good reaction. The theme of the restaurant is old India and Gandhi's story is on the menus."

Mr Hannan admits Gandhi was not well known for his love of curries, preferring to fast or live on goat's milk and nuts, but the name is still good for business.

"On pictures we have you can see his bones," Mr Hannan said. "But we have been surprised how many people are fascinated by the man and want to chat about him."

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