How to cater for rabbits' habits

THERE is interest lately in training rabbits to live indoors. This is a relatively new idea, which has gained popularity since the early eighties, when vets first started neutering rabbits. The problem before was that un-neutered rabbits, like tom-cats, mark their territory by spraying their urine.

There is really not much difference in having a rabbit as a household pet as having a cat or dog. They are clean, quiet, affectionate, don't need much exercise, and are easier to train than cats and dogs. They are also cheaper to keep.

Young, old, large or small, male or female it makes no difference. Any rabbit can become house trained. The only trouble is that once your rabbit has become accustomed to life indoors, it won't take kindly to being put back into its hutch at the bottom of the garden.

You should provide your rabbit with a suitable hutch in which he can eat sleep and defecate in peace and without any interruption. This should be his very own territory and his privacy should be respected. Never put your rabbit in his hutch yourself. He should be coaxed in and out under his own steam. The best way it by using treats. The first few days are vital and you should entice him into his hutch and then leave him undisturbed. It will give your rabbit time to get to know his surroundings and get used to the new sounds and smells.

Litter training is the first consideration. Conventional cat litters are unsuitable as many rabbits nibble at their litter and many cat litters swell up to several times their original size when they are wet. If swallowed when dry the results could prove fatal. The litter should be non-toxic, non clumping, dust free and absorbent. Litter which is dusty will irritate your rabbit's eyes and could also cause breathing problems. A non absorbent litter will allow the urine to splash back onto the rabbit and may cause skin rash and soreness. Wood shavings and straw or hay are most suitable. Place the litter tray at the back of the hutch and the food and water at the front. A little hay can be placed alongside the tray as most rabbits like to nibble while they perform their toilet. Rabbits always use the same spot and so if he selects a different area than the one that you have chosen, simply put the litter tray in his chosen corner. Keep your eye on the litter tray and, after a few days, when you are sure he is using it, you can let him out. The best time is just before he is ready for his next feed. A bowl of food placed in the hutch should encourage him to go back in when you want him to. Choose a time when there are few distractions. When the children are at school, for instance is ideal. Open the hutch door and retire to the other side of the room. You may find that your rabbit is not too eager to come out. This is a good sign and shows that he is content and feels safe in his own hutch.

You should be able to tease him out with a tasty treat but when he does venture forth don't pick him up. Rabbits live on, and under, the ground and being suddenly picked off the ground can prove to be a harrowing experience. If he does come towards you, a gentle stroke is all that is required at this stage. Don't force yourself upon him. By sitting on the floor you can get down to his level, rather than expecting him to come up to yours.

Your rabbit will want to explore his new surroundings, but before you let him out there are certain precautions you must take. Rabbits love to chew things and so all electric wires should be kept well out of reach. Shoes, books, house plants and your favourite slippers are all at risk to the gnashing teeth of an inquisitive rabbit. It is advisable to provide some objects for him to chew, such as cardboard boxes or even plastic cat toys. Rabbits can be trained to keep off certain objects by simply stamping your foot and saying 'No'. Although they can't follow complex instructions, they can be trained to follow simple words. The secret is to be consistent.

Ten minutes is usually long enough for him first excursion and so, when you are ready to get him back into his hutch, put his food in the hutch and block off all alternative routes so that he can only take one path back to his home. By standing behind him you should be able to gently usher him back in. It is vital, however, that he goes through the door under his own steam. If you repeat this every day, it should take about one week before your rabbit will go back into his hutch when you want him to.

As I said earlier, it is essential that an indoor rabbit is neutered. It will make him healthier and avoids the behavioural problems which are associated with the onset of puberty. Your veterinary surgeon will advise you on the correct age for neutering but as a rough guide a buck should be neutered at four months and a doe at six months.

Converted for the new archive on 14 July 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.