In the footsteps of the Romans

I LOVE Ribchester because, however busy it gets, there is usually a place to park and the riverside footpaths are well marked and scenically beautiful.

There are few better sights than the Ribble with Pendle standing supreme in the distance, highlighted by bright sunshine and blue sky.

Ribchester is a treat for naturalists but for those who love history there is the added bonus of the Italian connection.

The Roman fort, known throughout the ancient world as Bremetannacum Veteranorum, was established during the late first century AD. It was built because it was on the Ribble and its ford controlled the roads connecting the Roman routes passing both North to South and East to West.

The fort was garrisoned by 500 cavalry troops, which meant that the settlement was far from small. The first troops to arrive were people called Asturians, who came from northern Spain.

Around AD175 these troops were replaced by men who came from what is now Hungary.

The name Veteranorum sounds a bit like our word veteran, which indeed it was. Troops who had given loyal service were allowed to retire in the area and were given lands. I guess that some local folk around the Ribble Valley may have ancestors who were Roman soldiers who married local girls.

Such a major historical site needs an important museum and the Ribchester Roman Museum is certainly that. A few years ago lack of funding meant that it could not be open very often. The original building was purpose-built and opened in 1915 but recent extensions have meant that curator Patrick Tostevin has been able to oversee creative displays. Here are coins, pottery, leather and woodwork, plus stone altars and a tombstone which shows a cavalry man riding down a Celt, whose people were initially a threat to Roman dominance.

The displays have been arranged to show first the development and the decline of the Roman occupation, right up to the time that it was abandoned in the 14th century. The museum, which is now open through the year, has wheelchair access and is situated close to the parish church. This is a delightful example of Norman architecture and was mainly constructed of stone taken from the Roman fort.

Food and hygiene were Roman preoccupations and next to the museum can be seen the old granaries. Alongside the river is a footpath leading to one of the best-preserved bath houses in Britain. This area is one of the most under-rated areas of Ribchester.

Other reminders of the Roman occupation are found in the pillars and porch of the White Bull Hotel and impressive stonework has been incorporated into the 18th century almshouses at nearby Stydd.

Discovering all these exciting locations on foot within easy range of good car parking means that Ribchester is one of Lancashire's gems. Alongside the river are a number of wooden seats and I completed my day by enjoying my packed lunch and flask of coffee.

Anglers seemed to be having good sport and so did a flock of a dozen goosanders and the goldeneye ducks which were diving for food in the unpolluted water.

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