Food News, with Christine Rutter

THE ABUNDANT variety of wines around at Christmas makes picking that special bottle almost impossible.

But festive entertainers have been given a helping hand by Sour Grapes, a Blackburn-based wine tasting group, to ensure that the bottles they choose will make their parties special and the wines themselves will marry well with their Christmas food.

They tested out a stunning selection of wines, hand-picked by wine experts Roger Yates and Amanda Ward from their wine shops outlets in Lancashire.

Amanda said: "People drink more expensive wines at Christmas because they want something special but many are still unsure about buying wines."

Roger added: "Matching the right wine with the food can produce an amazing effect but people should not get too worried about it.

"Wine is all about personal preference. What one person likes, another person may dislike."

Taste test compiled by Sour Grapes member Des Riley

CHAMPAGNE BRUT, CANARD DUCHENE (12 per cent, £14.99-£15.49) Des: The wine comes from Ludes in the heart of Champagne. Made from pinot noir and chardonnay grapes it exhibits that yeast taste you would expect from Champagne. Fresh, vibrant citrus fruits which are well balanced and tend to mask the dryness.

Roger: Serve with smoked salmon.

CHATEAUX GAMAGE 1992, ENTRE DEUX MERS AC (11.5 per cent, £6.79-£7.29) Des: If you are serving fish or prawn cocktail, this wine will match a treat. It's a dry wine with an acidic, citrus nose and taste. If you have decided to start your meal with this wine and the above, I suggest you phone for a taxi while you are still sober.

Roger: Serve with white meat, fish, duck and goose.

MENETOU SALON 1996, CLOS DES BLANCHIAS, DOMAINE HENRY PELLIE (12.5 per cent, £8.79-£9.49) Des: The irresistible pale green and yellow hue and the aroma of grapefruit, lychees and lime make this irresistible. Open a bottle before you start cooking and reward yourself with its tastes once the meal is underway. When your guests arrive serve it with the meal. When they go, curl up in front of the box and indulge yourself again.

Roger: Excellent with white meat, fish and shellfish.

PAUL POUTINOT BROUILLY 1995 (10 per cent, £6.99-£7.49) Des: Slightly disappointing. Most of the tasters thought there was slightly too much alcohol for the fruit. This, or any other Beaujolais Villages, could be drunk with a tomato soup or the main course.

Roger: Serve with lamb, beef or light game like rabbit.

GALLO SONOMA 1993 ZINFANDEL, FREI RANCH VINEYARDS, DRY CREEK VALLEY (14.5 per cent, £10.99-£11.99) Des: Superb deep ruby colour and blackcurrant, liquorice and oak aroma from one of the big boys. It tastes of blackcurrant pastels. Perhaps a bit too big for a turkey main course but it could be fine with dark meats and cheese.

Roger: Serve with taramasalata or pate.

DOMAINE CHANTE-CIGALE 1994 CHATEAU NEUF DU PAPE (14 per cent, £10.99-£11.99 ) Des: A slightly disappointing wine. It may be that the Zinfandel swamped it. This, or any other Chateauneuf du Pape, could be drunk with the main course.

Roger: This one would be best served with red meat or strong game such as venison, wild boar or pigeon.

CASARITO 1996 MOSCATO D'ASTI (5.5 per cent, £5.99-£6.49) Des: If you don't drink wine, buy some of this. If you drink wine, buy some of this. I once described it as a sherbet dip in a glass. The wine has not changed but the packaging has. It now comes in a tall conical bottle, very much in the style of Galliano. The only restriction I can make is not to drink it with the Christmas pudding as I guess it will be overpowered. Any other dessert should be fine. Roger: Superb on its own.

DOMAIN FORCA REAL MUSCAT DE RIVESAULTS (15 per cent, £6.49-£6.99) Des: This was an exceptionally pale wine with the typical sweetness you would expect from a Muscat de Rivesaults. We tried it with mince pies and found that it worked well. Should also stand up to the Christmas pudding.

Roger: Serve with mince pies or Christmas pudding.

FERREIRA EXTRA DRY WHITE PORT (19.5 per cent, £7.49-£7.99) Des: A stylish white port that would probably work well as an aperitif. Most of us found the alcohol slightly high in the mouth but it has a good, long after-taste.

Roger: Serve with smoked meats as a starter.

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