AS a youngster I always used to think trifle was something grannies ate for tea when they couldn't find their false teeth.

Happily for me, my taste buds developed along with my perceptions of people's eating habits and I quickly became aware that this was indeed a gastronomic delight.

It went a fairly long way towards encouraging my love affair with cream and is responsible for more than a couple of the pounds of my "excess baggage."

Trifle also holds many fond memories of relatives - usually female - flinging sherry around the kitchen as they tried to convince their assembled guests that the alcohol was purely to add zest to the dessert and not to allow them to indulge in a few pre-meal tipples.

I wonder how many trifles start off in uniform perfection, sponges neatly arranged, and end up with cream all over the outside of the dish and flaked almonds all over the floor because of this phenomenon.

One of my friends tells a classic tale involving one of his aunties and a lost four hours, which started minutes after the turkey was carved on Christmas Day and ended halfway through the repeat of Only Fools and Horses - induced entirely by a "trifle" too much sherry. Don't let these cautionary tales put you off, though.

Made properly, this is a great dish for all occasions - including a one-to-one with a large spoon and the left overs when nobody else can see you. The basic recipe is timeless but feel free to experiment with different fruit and even axe the sherry in favour of something else.

One of my favourites involves rum and mango, with a dash of ginger thrown in.

SHERRY TRIFLE

(Serves one large family - or one large restaurateur)

3 egg yolks

1pt double cream

1oz sugar

1 level tsp cornflour

5 trifle sponge cakes

2oz flaked almonds, lightly-toasted

Good quality raspberry jam

2fl oz of sherry (or more!)

8oz frozen raspberries (or fresh, in season) 2 small bananas

BREAK the sponge cakes into medium size pieces and spread each piece with jam.

Place in a large glass bowl and sprinkle over the raspberries.

Add the sherry until the cakes are saturated.

Make the custard: Heat half the cream in a small saucepan.

Blend the egg yolks, sugar and cornflour together in a basin and when the cream is hot pour over the mixture, stirring constantly.

Return to the pan and reheat gently until thick, then allow to cool.

Slice the bananas, mix in with the raspberries, and pour the custard over.

Whip up the remaining cream and spread over the custard. Decorate with the flaked almonds.

Cover and chill for three to four hours before serving.

This is nice served with a good dessert wine. One of the Australian or Californian Muscats would be great.

Peake Practice is compiled by restaurateur Ray Peake, of Callums Bistro, Accrington

Converted for the new archive on 14 July 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.