THIS week I've had a request for my views and advice on fondue cookery.

In my opinion, fondue cookery is best likened to an indoor barbecue with the advantage of being a smoke-free alternative that does not depend on the weather, making it ideal for cold winter nights.

I actually once held a very impromptu midnight fondue party in a bus shelter on the sea front in Blackpool.

It's not a venue I would recommend today but at 18 it seemed like a cool and trendy thing to do. Now I am maturing in years, I prefer to enjoy the delights of fondue in the comfort of my home and I trust you will do the same. To enjoy a fondue you must first, of course, invest in one of the fondue sets which are readily available in kitchen shops and department stores - though I bet many readers already have one lurking at the back of the pan cupboard, forgotten about through lack of use.

The set should consist of the pan, some form of heating device (night lights or a methylated burner) and six different-coloured forks for easy identification. I think that is particularly important as it diminishes the chance of someone mistakenly "scoffing" your share. Fondue sets also make great gifts for people who owe you a meal but can't cook, so if you ever receive one as a gift take the hint, hold a party and make sure you invite the person who gave it you. Through some extensive, scrumptious research I can reveal there are three types of fondue to consider - meat, cheese and chocolate.

Here are some ideas for each.

Meat fondue involves placing boiling hot oil in to your fondue pan then dipping in your piece of meat until cooked to your preference - rare to well done.

You then dip it into a sauce of your choice.

I am not a fan of meat fondues and boiling oil in a pan on the dining room table can, of course, result in accidents with severe burns. So be warned and perhaps opt for either Cheese or chocolate fondue instead.

Cheese fondue - or Swiss fondue as it is also known - is, in it's simplest form, a hot cheese sauce prepared in the kitchen then transferred to the fondue pan for the fun to begin. Each guest is given a colour-coded fondue fork which is used to spear cubes of French crusty bread.

This is then is dipped into the bubbling melted cheese fondue, retrieved and savoured.

A lavish supply of wine should be made available as it lends itself very well to this type of meal.

For chocolate fondue, pieces of fresh fruit, marshmallows, or anything sweet that takes your fancy are "pronged" with the fork and dipped into the velvety, warm, melted chocolate fondue sauce before making their way to that ever-ready door just below your nose.

SWISS CHEESE

FONDUE

(Serves six)

1 clove garlic

bottle dry white wine

500g gruyere cheese (coarsely grated)

2 teaspoons corn flour

1/4 bottle Kirsch

1 grated nutmeg

2 loaves crusty French bread (cut into bite-size pieces)

RUB the inside of a heavy saucepan with the garlic.

Add the wine and heat until it begins to boil.

Gradually add the grated cheese a little at a time while constantly stirring and all the cheese is melted.

In a small bowl mix the Kirsch and corn flour then add to the cheese mixture.

Keep the cheese mixture just bellow simmering point and season to taste with freshly ground white pepper and grated nutmeg.

Transfer to the fondue pan and let your guests loose with their forks and crusty bread.

TIP: If the cheese mixture becomes too thick add more kirsch or white wine

CHOCOLATE

RUM FONDUE

(Serves six)

200g good quality chocolate - you could try it with a Toblerone

1 or 2 tablespoons rum (optional)

25g butter

2 tablespoon plain Greek yoghurt

125ml double cream

Fruit to dip. Strawberries and pineapple work well, as do marshmallows.

THIS is so easy a child (supervised of course) could do it.

Melt the chocolate and butter together in a pan on a low heat.

Remove from heat and stir in the yoghurt cream and rum.

Transfer to fondue pan and let your guests indulge.

TIP: Due to it's popularity, you may find it wise to double up on the given quantities.

Converted for the new archive on 14 July 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.