Drive & Stroll, with RON FREETHY - this week on the footpaths around Ullswater
WE all know about the Romans and the Anglo-Saxons, but nothing much about the history of the period between the two.
This week, between sweeping rain and heavy showers, I walked the footpaths around Ullswater.
After leaving the M6 at Penrith, I found Rheged -- the inspiration for lots and lots of fascinating strolls into history.
Rheged is a visitors' centre constructed around an old quarry which was closed in the 1960s. The old lime kilns are now Grade Two listed buildings and are part of what is the largest "underground complex" in Europe. It opened less than two years ago.
Apart from shops, a cafe and a cinema there is also an Information Centre. There are free leaflets and lots of books dealing with strolls and walks.
Where was the Kingdom of Rheged (pronounced Reg-ed)?
Rheged was a Celtic Kingdom which stretched from Southern Scotland to Cheshire and therefore included what is now East Lancashire. It developed from the time that the Roman influence declined in the 4th Century and reached its peak around AD590. The first king was a chap called Coel Hen who we know best as Old King Cole of nursery rhyme fame. Some historians think that our present monarchy has its origins in this Celtic Kingdom because the Tudor kings can be traced back to the Rheged line.
From the 8th Century the Angles and the Saxons challenged the Celts and many bloody battles were fought. The Celts had brave chieftains several of whom may well have combined to produce the legend of King Arthur. The old name for a Celtic Bard was Myrrdin which has over the course of time produced the character of Merlin.
It is amazing how this period of our history seems to have become 'lost' in the mists of legend. If you want to know more visit Rheged which is open free of charge and where there is plenty of parking. If you wish you can pay to see a spectacular film describing the history of Rheged and a guide book lists suitable areas to walk around the Old Kingdom.
Here is a list of strolls to enter in your diary all within easy reach of the M6 motorway.
1. Pendragon Castle -- Built in the 12th Century on a site fortified by Uther Pendragon said to be the father of King Arthur. The castle is too ruinous to be open to the public but there are good views from the road and from the River Eden.
2. Giants Grave, St Andrew's Churchyard, Penrith -- Here is said to be buries the huge son of Rheged King Urien. There are stones nearby and said to represent the wild boars he hunted and killed. At that time almost the whole of Rheged including Pendle and Rossendale were covered in forest.
3. Aira Force Waterfall above Ullswater -- This waterfall is reached from a car park and a steep footpath. It is scenically wonderful and is said to be the site associated with the death of the lover of Sir Eglamore, one of King Arthur's knights.
4. Brougham Castle -- Norman in origin but nearby is an earthworks still known as King Arthur's Round Table. There are also fine walks close to the site.
5. Bassenthwaite Lake -- One of the many sites throughout Britain where Sir Belvedere was directed to throw the sword of Excalibur as Arthur died. There is a footpath around the lake and on a wet and windy winter I followed the marked route. High above me a raven soared and brought back memories of Rheged whose symbol was that of this large blackbird. I also thought of Old King Cole and his fiddlers three. I've been a merry old soul myself because I know that all of us of East Lancashire are lads and lasses of Rheged!
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