A man breaking conventions

Controversial, outspoken he might be, but he still loves his home -- East Lancashire.

David Higgerson met the man who shuns fame and wants to make a difference...

HE is a millionaire several times over, is regarded as being a driving force behind one of this country's best-known fashion brands and is now being trumpeted as one the visionaries behind a bid to bring the European City of Culture title to Newcastle in 2008.

So you'd think Wayne Hemingway would be used to appearing on the society and showbiz pages of magazines.

The man who, along with wife Gerardine Astin, created the Red or Dead fashion brand is anything but a celebrity luvvie.

He has no airs, no graces -- and doesn't bat an eyelid when he realises his transport from Manchester Airport to a high-level meeting in Rossendale is a dirty Nissan Almera.

"I have never wanted that, I can't stand the celebrity thing," says Wayne. "I have just wanted to get on with what I enjoy doing, designing.

Wayne Hemingway is anything but conventional. He never has been, and probably never will be.

He was born in Morecambe in 1962 to Maureen Hemingway and Billy Two Rivers -- a Mohawk indian, who at the time was world heavyweight wrestling champion.

Three years later his father returned to Canada as a chief to lead his tribe and Wayne was subsequently raised by his mother and grandparents.

Unorthodox maybe, but it sowed the seeds of his future success.

An assisted grant helped to win a place at QEGS -- and a move to Blackburn where his mum ran the Halfway House in Samlesbury. He also became obsessed with experimenting with new styles. Northern soul, punk, new romantic, rockabilly -- he's done 'em all!

Such an ability to tap into youth culture resulted in him running a dance night at the Barracuda Club in London while he studied geography and meteorology at University College London. He showcased the likes of Level 42 and the Eurythmics. And in his last year he began selling second-hand clothes on Camden Market.

After meeting his future wife at a Northern Soul night in Burnley -- "She is from Padiham though, you can support Rovers from there" -- he began selling her designs on the stall too before Red or Dead was born in1982.

In typical fashion, that too was unconventional.

"We wanted to sell clothes which were in fashion but affordable and that didn't make us very popular with a lot of people," he says. "We were the first fashion label which people could afford and that went against what a lot of people in the fashion world wanted. The fashion elite weren't happy because they wanted to keep it exclusive.

"When I was growing up, all there was for style was Vogue. By the time I was going the Sun and the Mirror had fashion pages."

It was the fact Wayne could remember what it was like living outside London which ensured he connected with shoppers straight away.

And he isn't one to forget his roots -- "I'm a lad from North East Lancashire at the end of the day."

By 1996 Red or Dead was a global brand but Wayne decided to sell up.

It was multi-million pound deal, but Wayne said: "That wasn't important to us, we were being dragged everywhere, never having a second to stop. We have four kids and wanted to spend time with them. In fashion, you don't get that time."

The couple bought the firm back in 1998 and promptly sold it again. The sell-on gave Wayne and Gerardine the chance to set up Hemingway Design and move into architecture. The firm has helped design some impressive new buildings in London, but like his desire to create clothes people wear, Wayne wanted to design houses which people would benefit from.

He got that chance when he teamed up with building firm Wimpey, and is helping design a 700-house estate on the outskirts of Gateshead.

He said: "Don't get me wrong, I don't want to come across as all philanthropic or anything, but designing loft conversions is not for me.

"I want to design things which will have an effect on people's lives and hopefully bring an end to the shoebox type estates which are springing up everywhere.

"With fashion, it is there one minute and gone the next, you don't get chance to stop and think.

"With architecture, you can craft over something which can last and can make a real difference."

In 1983, he set up a manufacturing base at Roe Lee, with his mum leading the machinists battling to keep up with demand for the designs.

The fact space was so cheap in Lancashire compared to London ensured prices remained competitive. He opened shops in Blackburn and inside Affleck's Palace in Manchester. After hitting on the idea of customising Dr Marten boots as fashion items, Red or Dead went global, with the elite who had been so quick to snub him suddenly began offering Wayne awards.

With such success came much money and fame.

But in 1996, Wayne and his wife decided they had had enough, and decided to sell up. It was multi-million pound deal, but Wayne said: "That wasn't important to us, we were being dragged everywhere, never having a second to stop. We have four kids and wanted to spend time with them. In fashion, you don't get that time."

The couple bought the firm back in 1998 and promptly sold it again.

"The brand hadn't performed as well as we had become less involved. That often happens when the people who have created it take a back seat. It is often hard to find someone else to come in."

The sell-on gave Wayne and Gerardine the chance to try their hands at something new. They set up Hemingway Design and began to take an interest in buildings.

The firm has helped design some impressive new buildings in London, but like his desire to create clothes people wear, Wayne wanted to design houses which people would benefit from.

He got that chance when he teamed up with building firm Wimpey, and is helping design a 700-house estate on the outskirts of Gateshead.

He said: "Because of the money we have, we are able to do projects for a lot less than we would have otherwise been able to.

"Don't get me wrong, I don't want to come across as all philanthropic or anything, but designing loft conversions is not for me.

"I want to design things which will have an effect on people's lives and hopefully bring an end to the shoebox type estates which are springing up everywhere.

"With fashion, it is there one minute and gone the next, you don't get chance to stop and think.

"With architecture, you can craft over something which can last and can make a real difference to people's lives."

And despite the fact he is helping Newcastle with its bid to become European City of Culture in 2008, he admits he would love to do something in East Lancashire.

He said: "This is my home and I would love to do something which helps the area. Lord Square would be a great project to get involved in.

"I can remember when Blackburn was the place to be and I think it could be again."

Although they live in London, both Wayne and Gerardine spend a lot of time in East Lancashire.

But alongside the pressures of being a high-profile designer -- no matter what he turns his hand to -- he has one big priority at the moment.

"My youngest is mad keen on David Beckham at the moment," said Rovers fan Wayne.

"I brought him loads of flags and hats back from the Rovers cup final which has helped sway him a bit.

"And he has a Rovers kit but I need to make sure he follows Rovers and not Beckham."