ALL rivers have their own unique character and the Darwen, which gives its name to the town, gives me great cause for optimism. It has recovered from industrial pollution and is an exciting place to stroll and study natural history.

Dominating the town's skyline is Victoria Tower, also called Jubilee Tower, on Darwen Moor and to reach it involves one of the most attractive strolls in the area. This was always popular with cotton workers and the views are spectacular. The monument was completed in 1837 (hence Jubilee Tower) but was officially opened in 1838 and stands on top of a 1225 feet (372 metre) hill.

The view from the top is enhanced by plaques indicating the hills seen from it, including Pendle, Great Whernside, Fountains Fell, Penyghent, Ingleborough, Whernside, Burn Fell, Longridge Fell, Fairnsape Fell, the Langdale Pikes, Bowfell, Coniston Old Man, Kinder Fell, Holcolm Fell, Boulsworth, Black Combe, Snaefell on the Isle of Man plus Snowdon and the Welsh Mountains.

It was blowing a gale as I reached the tower. The moor looked healthy and has obviously recovered from the potentially disastrous fire of 1993. I watched a pair of peregrines displaying not far from the India Mill chimney, which has been a breeding site for a number of years. India Mill chimney, now a Grade II listed building, has just had a refurbishment, with the 300-foot structure still dominating the town. It was designed by Ernest Bates, who modelled it on the Camponile (Bell Tower) of St Mark's Square in Venice. The mill building ceased to spin cotton in 1991 but Brookhouse Management Properties Ltd have tenants which specialise in modern electronic communications.

The stroll down into Sunnyhurst Woods is a monument to the Victorians' love of the countryside set amidst a town. The word Sunnyhurst (ie Sunny Woodland) is an accurate description and on the day of my visit the sun shone and the trees provided shelter from the cold wind. This was what Lancastrians describe as a "lazy wind" which "goes through you rather then round you."

A pretty little stream runs through the wood and is spanned by ornamental bridges, while nature trails are as rich in species as many famous spots in the Lake District. During most weekends the Sunnyhurst Visitors Centre and Cafe is open and welcoming.

I looked at my map and followed the Darwen in the Ewood area.

From the football ground a splendid walk follows the river.

The temperature had risen significantly and bird song really did make it fell like spring. I heard my first willow warbler of the year and a pair of dippers were carrying nesting material.

From Ewood, the Darwen flows onwards through Witton and Pleasington. The improvement in water quality is continuing and pollution levels have been reduced to a minimum. There is one worrying feature and this is the amount of litter which finds its way into the river. Enlams (at one time called Tidy Britain) is working hard to tackle the little problem. We must all do our bit to keep them.

Our tourism industry depends upon a clean environment. A tourism hot spot along the Darwen is Hoghton Tower and I shall be strolling around this gem next week.