Drive & Stroll, with RON FREETHY
DOWNHAM has become even more popular these days following the success of the TV series Born and Bred, which is filmed in the village.
My Sunday stroll began on a dull, warm morning with some drizzle. It was more like autumn than August, apart from the temperature. Arthur Mee, the famous geographer, once described Downham as "like a bit of Elizabethan England forgotten by time."
Every time I stroll around the village I know just what he meant.
Opposite the pub, which attracts its fair share of gourmets, is the delightful little church. The tower is 15th century and there is a pleasant ring of bells which originally called the monks from Whalley Abbey to prayer.
A further connection with Whalley Abbey is also found in the church. Here is a font given by the last Abbot of Whalley, John Paslew.
When Henry VIII dissolved the Catholic monasteries in 1536 some abbots tried to resist. John Paslew paid for his resistance with his life. Spread throughout the Ribble Valley are tangible reminders of the affluence of the Cistercian monks. During my stroll I was dripping with moisture -- half sweat and half drizzle. I watched a brown hare race across the fields and among the seed heads of thistle I watched goldfinches feeding.
The whole of this area has a fascinating history. Squire Assheton loved hunting but he also kept a diary. An entry for June 25, 1617, for example, makes me feel that the survival of game in the Pendle area was a major miracle. First the squire described killing a bitch fox (the vixen) and then on the way home he came across a bowson, which is the old name for a badger. The poor beast was beset by terriers and killed.
Whenever a history of hunting is written, the name of Squire Assheton is always mentioned first.
At this time of year the walls around Downham are decorated with ferns such as spleenwort and wall rue but ivy-leaved toadflax is also a joy. Often called Wandering Sailor or Mother of Thousands, this charming bloom arrived as a garden plant in the 17th century but has since spread rapidly. It has one unique feature which helps it to thrive on -- or should it be in -- walls.
Once the flower head has died the seed capsules grow away from light. They literally turn around and grow into cracks inside which the seeds can easily germinate. Its original home was around the Mediterranean and its snapdragon-like flowers are pollinated by insects, especially bees.
What appeals to me about strolling from our local pubs is that I can enjoy history, local history and glorious countryside.
However tired I get on my journey I can think of a quiet pint and good food. Downham never disappoints me.
Getting there: From East Lancashire follow the A59 along the Whalley bypass. Look out for the signs to Chatburn. Turn right at Hudson's Ice Cream Shop (which is actually an old Toll House). This leads to Downham. It can also be reached from Burnley via Barley
Route: From the pub descend the hill, turn right over the bridge and then left. Keep the stream on the left and from a row of charming cottages pass through a number of stiles over succulent green fields. Pass a building on the left called the Alders and then reach Clay House. Then turn right until the Barley road is reached. There are three options from here depending upon how energetic you feel. You could climb Pendle to Barley but this is a long slog; a less energetic route is to turn right and then left to Worston. The road from Clay House and back to Downham is downhill all the way and the circular route back to the Assheton Arms is easily completed.
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