And what do you think of Kabul?!

A SHIVER ran down my spine and my heart froze as the plane's cabin was blacked out and its engines began to power down.

In the cockpit, our flight crew searched frantically, not for a problem with the plane's lighting or engine systems but for enemy positions in the bleak mountains just a few hundred feet below and on our flanks.

Any flight is a possible target for terrorists armed with rocket launchers or high powered machine guns that can down planes in a flick of a trigger.

However, this was no ordinary flight. It was, though, the only way the RAF could attempt to guarantee our safety as we made the descent into hell: or to give it its full name, Afghanistan.

Without doubt, the war in Afghanistan is very much alive and the risks to military and civilian personnel are constant. Somewhere in the mountains, or simply walking beside you in the streets, could be members of the Taliban or, more worryingly, trained killers with the Al Qaeda terrorist network.

Not so long ago, the Yanks and allied forces used their military might to help free this once-beautiful country from the Taliban masters. Last November 13, the Northern Alliance, led by General Mohammed Fahim, entered the capital city of Kabul after it was abandoned overnight by the Taliban.

The population greeted the native freedom fighters and their Western allies with cheers and great jubilation. This was a chance for this country's population to experience peace for the first time in 30 years. The Russian army invaded once but it was forced out after ten years of war by the determination of these proud people. Now, they welcome "invading" troops with open arms after their own leaders' infighting destroyed the country and led to the seizure of total power by the Talibans.

Fighting, in the main, is over and a long period of rebuilding is now the focus of scores of United Nations countries willing to help the 26 million or so people of Afghanistan.

This new era of peace and rejuvenation was spearheaded by the British armed forces which lead the first multi-national peacekeeping force. It arrived in Kabul on December 21 and the task immediately at hand was to begin clearing some of the 13 million or so unexploded mines that litter this barren, war-ravaged land. Bringing law and order to the streets was also a primary objective which, I am glad to say, has been very effective. Control of Kabul and most of the country has been handed back to the Afghan people.

Just ten months on from their arrival in the capital, Britain's only military representation are the Royal Engineers, the 'forgotten soldiers' in this once high-profile trouble spot. They are leading the efforts to clear as many landmines as possible while overseeing the development of Britain's long-term military base in the heart of the capital.

Dangers are ever present. Outside the camp, all personnel carry arms, loaded at all times, and they must rely on their training should they come under attack or, more probable, locate a land mine.

Amazingly, and not before time, while these hard working men and women of the Royal Engineers carry out their essential rebuilding and mine-clearance tasks, their lives are being protected by a teacher, a video shop worker, a machine operator, a Bury Council youth worker and a white van man.

These civilians, and more like them, are all members of the Lancastrian and Cumbrian Volunteers who have a base at Bury Drill Hall and have made history by becoming the first Territorial Army infantry unit since the Second World War to be despatched to an operational theatre of war.

Armed to the hilt with the much maligned SA80 and mini-me's (the Canadian version of the lethal and preferred General Purpose Machine Gun (GPMG)) the Bury volunteers and their colleagues from across Lancashire, provide round-the-clock security at BritFor's Camp Souter, a former fertilizer plant that, like most of Kabul, bears the scars of years of bombing, not just by the Russians, but in the main by Afghanistan's own people during their relentless struggle for power.

The LCV's three-month long mission is led by Platoon Commander, Captain Graham Heap from Blackburn.

He explained his 40-strong team's role: "We are responsible for all the security of the camp, providing 24-hour guard, and manning the Sangers (defensive firing positions around the camp). We also provide a Quick Reaction Force for here and the camp down the road where the lads are ready to move within five minutes to attend emergency, life threatening incidents. Their duty is 48 hours long and they sleep dressed.

"We also have a patrol section. The area we cover is quite small but, hopefully, we should get a larger area shortly. Basically, the guys conduct foot patrols, chatting to locals and gathering intelligence; how they feel about BritFor, ISAF in general, and the coalition forces (the Americans are operating Enduring Freedom). We also find out about humanitarian needs of the people who have suffered for so long."

Afghanistan was invaded by the Soviet Union in 1979. Ten years later they were forced to withdraw by anti-communist mujahidin forces who were funded by America, Pakistan and Saudi Arabia among others.

Despite crushing the Soviets (experts believe at least 50,000 Russian troops were killed at the hands of the Afghans) fighting continued between the Afghan tribal factions and cities like Kabul and its people were made to suffer. Enter the Taliban: this fundamentalists Islamic movement's abuse of people's human rights shocked the world long before 9/11. All western influences were outlawed, public executions and beatings were common-place.

In 1998, the United States launched cruise missile attacks on the Khost region, intent on destroying terrorist bases and training camps used by Osama Bin Laden.

Now the Afghans are free from Taliban rule and protected and aided by the International Security Assistance Force (ISAF), a multi-national army. Britain forms a tenth of the 4,800 strong military contingent in the Southern Asian country.

On arriving in Afghanistan, after overcoming the terror of our "under the cover of darkness" flight into Kabul Airport, the first thing that strikes you when out and about on the capital's streets, is the welcoming warmth shown by the people, young and old, male and female. They wave, give the thumbs-up, cheer and smile. They are liberated, elated folk who are celebrating a new beginning thanks to the likes of the BritFor troops.

Cpt Heap said: "We predominantly patrol on foot, whereas 99 per cent of all other nation's patrols around Kabul are actually vehicle mounted.

"We feel we get a better response from the locals on the ground. We talk to people while other nations' soldiers just drive past them. We get really good feed back from the Afghans who say we have helped reduce a lot of crime in the area. They asked us to do night patrols which we have done and crime has reduced even further."

Having arrived at the beginning of September, the LCV were previously put through an intensive training programme designed to bring their infantry skills up-to-speed and generally help them make the transition from weekend warriors to regular 24/7 soldiers.

Cpt Heap said: "The boys have settled in now. The sections are eight to nine men strong that rotate every two days.

"On the first day one of the lads found a mortar bomb 200m from a school that had been there for a while. We then worked with one Italian Explosive Ordnance team who took it away and destroyed it. We provide security for the EO teams while they deal with mines and UXBs. We have also had some suspect devices that were found near camp so we set up cordons to protect the public."

He continued: "There are still lots of threat warnings that constantly come in to the ISAF. Al Qaeda or Taliban are still doing their best to try and disrupt the work of ISAF.

"The threat level rose following the assassination of the president of Afghanistan, Ahmed Shah Masood.

"He was held in very high esteem by the Afghan people when he was assassinated.

"All vehicles were double manned and double vehicles were sent out on patrols. However, we didn't experience any problems even on the anniversary of September 11.

"We get out as much as we can. If you stayed in here for three months you'd go stir crazy. Getting the guys into the city gets the British flag shown around. Everybody seems very friendly towards the British.

"The Germans and the Americans don't get quite as good a result, I don't think. Again that is because we get out of our vehicles and talk to the people."

Those from the Fusilier detachment, B Company, LCV based in Bury and serving in Kabul are Sergeant Phil Stokes, Corporal Chris Smith, Lance Corporal Paul Brady, and Fusiliers Stuart Briggs, Chris Dania, Adam Gagan, Danny Packham, Dave Shyne, Ken Simpson, Rob Sutterby and Donny Waters.

So, what is life like for our local boys as they put their lives on the line for a people several thousands of miles from home?

Well, within the first week of their operational tour of duty most, if not all, had suffered from a heavy dose of D and V (diarrhoea and vomiting). Its cause is unknown although the amount of sun-dried human excrement that is blown about is probably a major factor. The food is top notch so you can rule that out. A handful of malaria cases were also reported but with winter quickly setting in, heat-borne diseases and problems are decreasing.

Down time is rare and home sweet home is a dust covered tent. Mobile shower and toilet facilities are clean and cigarettes and the odd beer are cheap ($2 for 200 and $1 for a can of cold lager).

However, first impressions last and L/Cpl Paul Brady wasn't one to hold back on his view of Kabul.

The father of three is a self-confessed white van man who has been in the TA at Bury since 1994, in the days when the town's Castle Armoury Drill Hall was occupied by D Company of the 5th Battalion, the Royal Regiment of Fusiliers.

He said: "My first impression of Kabul was that it was a xxxx-hole. We knew we were coming to tented accommodation but the actual camp itself, well, I thought it would be an old Russian military camp when, in fact, it is nothing but a bombed out former fertilizer factory. Considering it is right next to Kabul Airport, however, some of the buildings are surprisingly intact.

"The city itself has taken a battering and is pretty well shot up."

The self-employed driver brings with him to Afghanistan experiences from his first overseas tour of duty on the streets of Northern Ireland for a 12 month long secondment to a regular battalion.

He said: "Coming to Afghanistan has not been a shock but it is a different experience. The people are friendlier than they were in Northern Ireland. That was something I didn't expect.

"I felt the poorer people would be happy that people are coming in to help. I thought there would be more resentment against the coalition forces because of the bombing. But that has not been the case... so far!

"It could turn at any time with the tribes. I think it is a volatile area if somebody doesn't like the look of something or decides he want to grab a share of power. They have a history of not liking each other at the best of times.

"We are walking on egg shells."

For their last night of civilian life, the Afghan-bound Territorials enjoyed a party in the White Lion in Bury and kissed goodbye to their girlfriends and wives amid emotional scenes.

While in Kabul the soldiers each receive 20 free phone minutes to ring their friends and loved-ones back in Blighty while an e-mail service is available to keep in touch with home.

The 33-year-old's past experiences have helped ease his friends into their armed protection role but he couldn't care less if the Territorial Army lads are looked down upon by their regular army counterparts.

He said: "I found in Northern Ireland, after a certain amount of time, that I was accepted by the regulars. Basically there was another person to do a duty which meant the regulars had a lot more down time than normal.

"Quite frankly, though, I earn twice as much money as the regulars because of what I do back home and as a member of the TA so they can think what they like."

However, for Fusilier Stuart Briggs from Walshaw, the whole concept of army life is very much a new experience. He is aged just 18 and only passed out from basic training in March.

He was employed as a labourer but quit his job weeks before he was due to fly out to his first war-zone. When he returns he hopes to use his peace-keeping experiences to join the police force.

Fus Briggs said: "When the Afghanistan tour was offered I thought people were taking the Mickey but I volunteered anyway as I wanted to go and my mates were volunteering with the detachment.

"Then when we arrived the president of Afghanistan, Ahmed Shah Masood, had just been assassinated and we were thrown straight into our job. It felt kind of surreal because we had been in training for ages. It was only when we arrived at the camp did it become reality.

"When I first came through the gates of the camp I felt a bit nervous, looking at the bomb ravaged buildings which were covered with bullet holes. But I quickly got settled and it is now reasonably comfortable. We have made our tents into real homes from home with TVs and DVDs to keep us entertained in the few hours we have to relax."

While Fus Briggs feels relaxed around the Afghans, he is determined not to become too complacent.

"The locals are very warm and welcoming people. When we are out on patrol we don't feel threatened which is a problem. You can get side tracked by the kids and everything seems fine. But you have to remember there are Taliban and Al Qaeda members who have integrated themselves back into the community. There are hidden dangers and you have to remain alert, switched on."

Also enjoying his first operational tour of duty is 31-year-old Fusilier David Shyne, a single man with seven years of TA under his belt and already planning to go to Northern Ireland next year on secondment.

He spoke of his pride at making modern history as the first TA infantry units to be deployed to a war-zone since the Second World War.

He said: "I have never done anything like this before but I am very proud. It is nice to be the first to do something and we are helping to make a difference in this country.

"I have been surprised by the locals who are so friendly. They greet us like old friends. That is down to the fact that we go out on foot patrols and are probably the only nation here that does that. We meet the people, laugh and joke with them and they are happy with that.

"Going out on patrol has been the greatest highlight. It is not very thrilling but going out meeting and seeing the people is brilliant."

On our first trip into Kabul, flanked by two Military Police officers, we stopped off at a road-side petrol station. Initially it was deserted with just one attendant fuelling a mini-bus full to brimming with bearded men. How many of these were once Taliban? It was hard to say if any but the appearance of cameras prompted these travellers to smile broadly at us and for us to take their pictures. Seconds later the forecourt of sorts was teeming with beautiful, dark haired children: waifs and strays who wore the shabbiest of clothes, some with no footwear, all with dirt-smeared faces but with clear, bright eyes which emitted hope.

We had been warned not to give in to their pleas for water, pens, paper, the odd Dollar. Giving to beggars only encouraged more begging. It's heartbreaking to say you cannot give them water when they can see several bottles of the stuff in the back of your vehicles. Sadly, if you give to one you have to give to all and that is just not possible.

These children now have a future and the TA and their regular counterparts who have been sent out to Afghanistan have given them that chance.

Appreciating that gift more than most is Fusilier Rob Sutterby from Radcliffe. Only days after flying out to Kabul, the 30-year-old Sustained Fire Gunner's girlfriend gave birth to his baby daughter, Abigail Jane, on August 31.

The proud dad has yet to hold his new baby but has received a picture of the tiny tot.

He said: "She is absolutely beautiful . I found out about the birth while on guard duty. One of my friends had e-mailed me. It was brilliant.

"I was walking around with a big grin on my face. I am so happy and can't wait to get back home in December to see Abigail and my girlfriend."

Fus Sutterby has been in the TA at Bury for seven years and is also experiencing his first operational tour.

"I have seen the poverty and desperation here in Afghanistan and it makes we realise how fortunate my new daughter is. She will grow up in a safe environment whereas the children in Kabul will always be at risk especially from the mines that are scattered across the country.

"But, at least what we are doing here will help them in some way. For the first time in their lives they are free."

NEXT WEEK: Meet more of the Bury soldiers who are helping re-shape Afghanistan and hear from schoolgirl Mariam Shobnans, a 13-year-old who is benefiting from the British Army's commitment to community projects in Kabul.