Weekend soldiers help make a difference

FOR most of her young life, Mariam Shobnans has dreamed. After all, dreams were the only thing the Taliban could not take from her.

Official education was denied to her, working was not allowed and, when she came of age, the 13 year old would be forced to wear a full-length burka gown, under the fundamentalist Islamic movement's reign of, what we Westerners labelled, pure evil.

Like most girls her age, Mariam was forced to learn in secret classrooms, hidden away from her Taliban masters who treated women as worthless objects. After all, the "Good Book" said so.

Now, Mariam, and millions like her in Afghanistan, are free. Free to learn about life, the world, free to walk alone in the street, free to earn a small crust by getting a job when she is old enough. Mariam is free to live her dream at last. She can now make her quest to become a journalist a reality.

The reason for her new-found freedom is, of course, thanks to the efforts of the International Security Assistance Force (ISAF), a multi-national armed force that, for the first time in nearly 30 years, has brought peace and stability to this war and drought-ridden country.

ISAF has also helped begin the rejuvenation of her country with the British forces heavily involved, not just in the creation of their long-term military base, but also with the creation and refurbishment of schools and other community facilities in the country's capital city.

Mariam attends one of those schools, one just for girls, that just 12 months ago would never have existed.

Speaking in English learned from one of her underground lessons, Mariam told me: "We are so happy. Life has changed and everyone's lives are very good. I am happy that my country has been freed and education starts. Everyone likes and wants to go to school. I was not allowed during the Taliban.

"I like learning English more than any other subjects. I want to know about the life of other people in every country, not just Afghanistan."

She continued: "I like the English soldiers who come here often to help us. I feel good they are here. My country is safe from the other people who don't want us to be safe."

AMONG the British soldiers helping to make Mariam and her country people's life better is a contingent of Territorial Army volunteers from the Lancastrian and Cumbrian Volunteers, many of whom served with the Fusilier detachment based at Bury's Castle Armoury Drill Hall.

The 40-strong unit has made modern history by become the first TA infantry platoon to be sent on an operational tour of duty, and a war zone at that.

One surprise, apart from the vast destruction and the want of the majority of the population to have foreign military forces on their soil, is how far away Afghanistan is from our home land. Just getting there these days is a feat of major logistically proportions.

My journey began weeks before the Army confirmed my inclusion in a North West news team visit to the former Taliban homeland. My colleagues came out with the usual reminders about keeping my head down while I was determined to earn the £10.2 million bounty for the head of Osama bin Laden. Could the humble Bury Times score the scoop of the century by securing an interview with the world's most-wanted man?

After a farewell lunch with my other half, I drove to Fulwood Barracks, in Preston, where I met up with Carlisle hack Dave Ottewell. He and I would be chauffeur driven to RAF Brize Norton, near Oxford, and link up with our colleagues from Granada and BBC TV.

Departing these shores just gone midnight, we flew RAF-mode (backwards) in a VC10 and, four hours later, arrived in Cyprus for a three-hour stop over. After refuelling, our lift headed off with us tucked up on board for another four-hour flight to Oman. A further three-hours on the ground. All comfort was to be discarded as we swapped the rather cushy VC10 for the deafening, bone-shaking Hercules. We then suffered an eight-hour haul, the last 60 minutes in complete darkness, and landed in Kabul.

Under armed escort, Land Rovers front and rear with machine guns, and in the dead of night, the North West press team and military visitors were driven in an open-topped Army truck to the base.

The streets were quiet. There was no lighting and anywhere in the ruins we passed could have been Taliban or Al Qaeda, ready to take a pot shot at us. Fortunately, without incident and after more than 30 hours of travelling, we were "home".

Sadly, the bar had closed: it is only open for two hours every evening and all non-duty personnel are only allowed a limited amount of alcohol. So off to bed we went and slept like logs. The next few days would be hectic and a real eye opener.

While Afghanistan is no longer a war zone, in the sense that full-on fighting is now over, the dangers of this troubled place are everywhere. Our safety briefing included such tips as: ALWAYS wear flak jackets when away from camp; ALWAYS stay with your armed escorts; DON'T walk on soft ground (land mines); DON'T eat food bought from outside camp as it may be laced with poison; if you find yourself in a mine field either (a) retrace your exact steps, (b) stay put, (c) **** yourself. Option C would have been my choice.

THROUGHOUT most of its modern history, Afghanistan has been at war, particularly with itself. So while it is currently enjoying long-overdue peace, there is still lots of room for those power-mad types to kick up a bloody stink and plunge the country into civil war again.

So much on a knife's edge is the peace in Kabul that soldiers like Bury Fusilier Adam Gagan believe anything could happen to shatter the peacekeeping efforts.

As a history teacher at a high school in Blackburn, the 27-year-old, from Brandlesholme, Bury, has completed a project on the history of the country and is well aware how things could change.

He said: "I appreciate the country has been at war for a long time but they are now very happy, the crime level has gone down, yet the public still worry about the small factions and they are growing again.

"The power struggle, the internal politics of this country, is mad. There are two or three guys who want power, regardless of democratic rights. Therefore, I don't think you can downgrade ISAF, start pulling people away, or they might take that opportunity to move in.

"The majority are happy were are here and they want us to stay. Some of the teenagers who speak English know what is going on.

"Sadly, there are people in Kabul trying to drum up support to be anti-ISAF and encouraging the assassination of troops."

A TA member for five years, "Sir" Gagan nearly didn't make the tour of duty until his head teacher stepped in to convince the board of governors at his school that the sabbatical would be worth his while.

Unfortunately, as a teacher at a predominantly Asian school, some of his pupils were less sure about him joining military operations in the Islamic country.

He explained: "This is my first operational tour with the Army but it was one I really wanted to go on.

"Unfortunately, as a teacher, you just can't get up and walk away from the classroom at the drop of a hat. There were a few problems, such as cover, but my head teacher swung it for me, and brought the governors round.

"My school has mainly Asian pupils so I did keep it quiet for a long time before I came away. I didn't know what the reaction would be. I had already experience pro-Taliban in the school. There is no racism in the school at all but when September 11 happened, we did get a division which we put a stop to straight away.

"When I finally announced my intentions, some of the kids were asking about if I'd get shot or shoot at people, things like that. Others said I couldn't shoot a fellow Muslim. But I just said we are not there to shoot but to peace-keep. We are not here to fight a war, and we are not, but I only told a few of the older lads. The younger kids thought it was a big game. Thankfully, I didn't get a hostile reaction."

Bury Council residential care worker and TA squaddie Ken Simpson enjoyed more of a smooth ride when he approached his bosses about flying to Afghanistan.

The oldest member of the LCV team said: "They were taken aback at first when I put in a request for long-term leave and told them what I intended doing.

"This was the first time in modern history that a TA soldier working with the council had request leave to attend a war zone. It was a new situation for both Bury Council and myself but they have been brilliant. They have supported me all the way and have said they will keep my job open for when I return."

Like Mr Gagan, Fus Simpson read up on and watched a number of documentaries to help him understand Afghanistan and its people. But he was still unprepared for what he saw.

He said: "The poverty and the destruction caused by 26 years of war is just incredible. All caused by their own people. The Russians left an infrastructure here but as soon as they went, the restraints were gone and they fought among themselves. You cannot find an intact wall. It is appalling."

He continued: "The children absolutely adore us. They are constantly asking for chocolate and sweets, which we have stopped doing because we get mini riots. The children and adults respect us because we show respect to them.

"I am, also, more aware of how rich we are in our own country. There are parts of Bury that are run down but I now know what poverty is. This is the worst I have ever seen."

Despite the welcoming arms that have met them, Fus Simpson and his colleagues remain ever vigilant against terror attacks.

"We are all very much aware that there are those around us who don't want us in Afghanistan," said the 36-year-old. "Any man standing beside us could be Al Qaeda. We are always aware of that."

Indeed, the resolve of the Afghan people can never be under estimated. We visited a tank graveyard, the remnants of Russia's decade of occupation, and it was brought home to us that these people don't welcome invaders lightly.

"As far as they eye could see, you observed row upon row upon row of Russian tanks that were destroyed by the Afghanistans. The story goes that when the Russians fled, about 400 soldiers were skinned alive."

We then took a tour of downtown Kabul, visiting the tomb of the King of Afghanistan. Perched high on the hillside looking over the city, it too bore the scars of years of war.

Stopping at some of the capital's bomb-blasted buildings, like visiting any country, there is always time for a trip to the shops. Chicken Street is Afghanistan's equivalent of Bury's Mill Gate shopping complex, but without the fancy store fronts, goods and piped music. A young boy pestered to clean my dust-covered boots for about 60p but the contents of his cleaning box (you can never be sure they don't go bang) concerned me enough to decline.

I was offered a flick knife, bought a pair of sunglasses and bought a few tit-bits as reminders of my brief visit. With beggars snapping at our heels, it was time to get back to the job at hand and meet and learn more about the lives of the brave men from the LCV.

Fusilier Danny Packham (18), of Lowercroft, is among the many TA soldiers with the LCV who were either forced or simply gave up their Civvy Street jobs to fly to Afghanistan.

Before the opportunity arose for a taste of adventure, the teenager worked as a Blockbuster Video customer service assistant in Bolton Road, Bury.

He said: "The job was just to fill a gap, to earn a few bob so that I could afford to live and treat my girlfriend, Claire, to a few nights out a week.

"The Territorial Army offered me much more and I have been a member for the past year. I always wanted to do an operational tour, either Kosovo or Bosnia, so when Afghanistan came up, I jumped at the chance. My job at Blockbuster didn't stand a chance so I called it a day.

"I was excited about going to Afghanistan. Now that we are here, I have not been disappointed. There is always the risk that we could get shot at and things can get a bit dodgy. But I am glad I came."

After undergoing specialist training to prepare the TA volunteers for the cross-over to full time regular soldiers, their role in Afghanistan was not established until their arrival on the country's soil as part of BritFor's Operation Fingal.

But this is where the lads become critical of what they have or have not been taught, their views on how they are being integrated as regular soldiers, and what benefits they are gaining by being a members of Britain's "Weekend" Army.

Fus Gagan said: "The TA offers something different. Everyone has a full-time job but most finish work, go home, paint the house or wash the car. I leave work and on the Saturday fire a machine gun, carry out a section attack. Whose having the most fun?

"It is hard work while we are doing it, but there is also a sense of achievement you get at the end of the weekend or training camp. They pay is terrible but we don't do it for money.

"I think the TA should be out in places like Afghanistan, working alongside the regulars, as regular soldiers."

He continued: "Training wise, if it kicks off, we will be fine. We are trained to defend ourselves. We are learning every day about patrolling. I was impressed with professionalism of entire platoon. We are doing really well here.

"However, I was very apprehensive before we arrived. The training eased quite a few worries and when I got here, we have a little phrase, the F-Factor, which has a scale of one (the best) to 20. If you asked me when we arrived, I would have said the F-Factor was 17. A few things need to be ironed out and we, the TA and the regulars, need to be trusted with expensive pieces of kit and equipment that we need to do our job effectively, such as night sites. The hierarchy are learning as they go so, if another tour comes up in six months, I believe things would be better."

For the experienced L/Cpl Paul Brady, the 33-year-old Northern Ireland veteran doesn't care about what regular soldiers think of him or his TA colleagues.

He said: "I found in Northern Ireland, after a certain amount of time, I was accepted by the regulars. Basically, there was another person to do a duty, which means the regulars had a lot more down time than normal."

The Bury lads are due to return home on December 7, although that depends on the reliability of the Hercules planes. My lift broke down shortly after arriving in Afghanistan and we had no option but to sleep on Kabul Airport's runway, just yards from a mined area, until it could be repaired.

Twelve hours later, we hitched a lift on an impressive C17 cargo/troop plane. We shared our journey with a Land Rover, a fuel tanker and a four-tonne truck and still had plenty of leg room. After a brief stop in the humidity of Bahrain, we arrived safely on British soil.

So it seems apt to end this tale with the words of Sergeant Phil Stokes, who cannot wait to get back to his local, Bolton Street's White Lion, in Bury. He even has a picture of the pub pinned to his tent to remind him of home.

"It's hot and dusty, the cook house isn't bad and there's a bar but it's not as good as White Lion and a proper pint," said the 27-year-old.

"When we arrive back, we have a number of parties planned. We also intend to go on a lads' holiday, just to unwind and relax.

"We have proved that the TA can do the job as well as our colleagues in the regular Army."

The Bury soldiers are keen to hear from anyone wishing to become pen pals during their stay in Afghanistan. Send letters to: LCV Plt, Camp Souter, Op Fingal, BFPO 758.