ON an early spring morning the sun was shining brightly as I left the Gamecock to the sound of lapwings and curlews displaying around the damp fields overlooking the Calder.
After a period of heavy industrial pollution this river is now running clear and trout and salmon are now found in good numbers.
Before the Industrial Revolution this area was dominated by a trio of impressive old halls. Two of these are still there -- Read Hall and Mytholme Hall. There are footpaths, tracks and roads leading to these halls but are not on the present route.
I followed the road towards Whalley and looked down to the left where flowers such as wood anemone, primrose, wild garlic and bluebell thrive. Here was once the third splendid manor house set in this area of the Calder Valley.
Moreton Hall was built in 1829 on the site of a previous mansion and which had 365 windows and 52 chimneys. During the Second World War the building was occupied by Polish troops who were taught English and the techniques used by the British armed forces. Sadly, Moreton Hall was demolished in the 1960s but many Poles married local girls and now live locally.
Soon after the Moreton Hall woodlands I reached Spring Wood, I extended the length of my walk by following the circular route through the Nature Trail but then passed beneath the road and set off through woodlands and into Whalley. In wet weather stout boots or wellingtons are essential.
The sound of birds is always in evidence, especially in spring. I listened to great spotted woodpeckers drumming on the trunks of trees. Spring Wood does not take its name from the season but from the many springs which issue from the highlands above the wood. Not far away on these heights at Portfield is a remnant of a once-important Roman signal station.
As I reached Whalley I saw lots of old houses and cottages before reaching the crossroads dominated by the old Grammar School.
This marks the halfway point of the walk. Neither the parish church or the atmospheric ruins of the Cistercian Abbey should be missed.
Whalley is a delightful mix with the medieval church and abbey blending easily with the Georgian town with its houses and especially old inns. These date to the early 19th century when Whalley was at the hub of the Turnpike road system.
The road system was later replaced by the railway and modern Whalley is overlooked by a wonder of Victorian engineering. This is the still functional 48-arched brick-built viaduct which was constructed in 1852. This crosses the Calder close to its confluence with the River Ribble. It is overlooked by the church and the abbey. The parish church of St Mary and All Saints dates back to around 1200 but there is evidence of a much earlier religious foundation. In the churchyard there are three ancient crosses. These date from the ninth to the early 11th century and are described as Celtic-Scandinavian.
The church is a delight and although dominated by its 15th century tower it is the interior which attracts the historian. Much of the furniture comes from the nearby abbey which was dissolved by Henry VIII in the late 1530s.
The monastic choir stalls had ledges calls misericords which allowed the brethren to lean against them whilst standing for the long services. A close look at the carvings on these reveals that the monks had a real sense of humour.
There is one showing a man throwing away his sword and kneeling in subjugation to a woman. She is practising the principles of home rule by beating him on the head with a frying pan!
Although the origins of Whalley Abbey go back to 1172, it did not begin on the banks of the Calder but at Stanlow overlooking the Mersey.
This Mersey site was subject to flooding and the Cistercians moved to Whalley in 1296. Until they fell foul of Henry VIII Whalley Abbey was one of the richest in Lancashire.
Whalley is a busy little spot but I soon turned off the footpath over the Nab (nab means a hill).
Away towards the bridge can be seen the weir constructed by the monks in order to accelerate the current used to power their corn mill.
By the time I reached Cock Bridge and the Gamecock Inn I was ready for my meal and a cooling drink.
The route: From the Gamecock take the main road (A671) towards Whalley. After 1 miles you will reach Spring Wood picnic site. From the obvious track bear left and pass under the A671. This leads through woods and fields and over stiles with a small brook running towards Whalley.
Whalley is reached at the crossroads overlooked by the Old Grammar School. Turn through the village passing the Parish Church and Abbey to the right. Pass over the bridge over the River Calder and the old track to Great Harwood leads off to the left. Look out for a signed footpath over the Nab. Pass through a hamlet and over stiles to woodlands and open fields. Down to the left is the Calder. Continue to a wall stile at the main road. Turn right and return to the Gamecock.
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