CHEESE-MAKING is more than a tradition for the Butler family - it is big business. From humble beginnings in 1932 when just a handful of Lancashire cheeses were produced, the Butlers now produce 1,200 tons of farmhouse cheeses every year.

Their hand-made traditional cheeses are sold as premium brands at major supermarkets such as Tesco, Asda and Safeway.

The farm now produces a wide range of award-winning cheeses including Lancashire, Red Leicester, Double Gloucester, Cheshire and Wensleydale. A family culture still very much prevails and, while output has increased, the Butlers insist their dedication to quality has not been compromised.

Director Colin Hall - who married into the Butler family - is convinced that sticking to tradition has been the key to their success from their Ribble Valley base.

"All the cheese is hand-made, using traditional farmhouse methods and recipes which have been handed down through the generations," he said.

"Our cheese always has to be different from anyone else's. We are never going to be the cheapest, but we are perceived to be the best."

The Butler family story began in 1932 when Richard and Annie Butler moved to the farm. The small amount of cheese that they made every summer was used to barter for grain at the market each spring.

Their son Tom and his wife Jean took over the cheese-making in 1969. With five children to bring up, they decided to increase production to two or three traditional Lancashire cheeses a day.

At that time, most cheese was sold through an organisation that was governed by the former Milk Marketing Board which licensed all production.

Over the next 20 years, cheese-making gradually began to dominate life on the farm and its annual output had reached 180 tons and led to the construction of a new dairy.

Jean's daughter Gillian and her husband Colin joined the business, providing the technical and marketing skills that have helped the business cater for the increasing demands of a growing customer base.

At that time, there was a workforce of six. Today, Butlers has more than 75 employees at its two sites.

With a background in sales and marketing, Colin quickly realised that the Butlers brand had to be established in its own right. Butlers Farmhouse Tasty Lancashire - matured for at least 10 months - was created and remains the flagship product of the range.

Colin realised the need to interest the big supermarket chains. Gillian, who had worked as a technologist for Unilever, understood their requirements for hygiene and health and safety standards and worked to ensure Butlers could pass any test.

When the supermarkets demanded that the farmhouse cheeses come pre-packed, Colin installed packaging equipment which is now installed in the old Co-op warehouse in Longridge.

Other traditional English cheeses such as Red Leicester and Double Gloucester were soon added to the range.

The Butlers name is now synonymous with quality farmhouse cheese and retail chains are happy to offer dual branding. "We were one of the first companies to have our name on a Marks and Spencers' product," said Colin.

As part of the constant drive for quality, all milk used for cheese-making comes from farms within a 10-mile radius of the dairy at Wilson Fields Farm just outside Inglewhite.

All deliveries are tested and farmers are paid dependent on a number of factors such as fat and protein content. "We pay a very good price for our milk," he explained. "We want them to produce good quality milk so that we can make good quality cheese."

A new development is a range of rinded cheeses that has been created specifi- cally for specialist cheese outlets. Wrapped in buttered muslin, 'Trotter Hill Tasty', ' Goosnargh Gold' and 'Rothbury Red' are allowed to mature for up to 12 months.

The quality of Butlers' cheeses relies heavily on the skills of its cheese makers. Gillian and Jean Butler, two of the country's top graders.

Before the cheese is placed in the cheese store, it is hand-wrapped in muslin to hold its shape and then waxed, which protects it whilst allowing it to breathe as it matures. The resulting cheese is creamy and moist and it is this process that brings out the best characteristics. While the cheese is maturing, it is regularly turned and graded for quality.