WITH bare-chested police patrolling the streets in traditional tribal dress, Swaziland seems a world away from the streets of East Lancashire.

But Sergeant Chris Eccles found that he had a natural affinity with the people when he visited the South African country to train its officers. He witnessed their pride in maintaining traditions, such as the police uniform of feathered boots and coloured skirts.

But he was overwhelmed by their willingness to accept change, their friendliness, and generosity, despite their extreme poverty.

Today Sgt Eccles told how, after initially feeling alien in such a different culture, he was accepted to the extent that they named him Tsatsemaksiko (one who takes the customs).

Sgt Eccles, who works in the police custody suite at Greenbank Station, in Whitebirk, Blackburn, first went to the country in 2001 to set up a training centre for Swaziland's 2,296 officers, many of whom also work as farmers.

He returned in 2002 to see how his recommendations were being adopted and is planning to return next month. Sgt Eccles, 46, from Penwortham, a specialist in police training consultancy, said: "Their training is a military model which, on the face of it, looks great as they call everyone 'Sir', but for all that shouting there is little substance to it. It is important for them to put on a show. I was trying to encourage them to make their teaching more student-centred.

"There was a lot of suspicion in the force from the low-level officers and some negative attitudes, but the officers chosen to set up the unit with me had been selected because they had fairly open minds and were willing to accept change."

Aside from the training, Sgt Eccles was moved by the culture of the people, almost a third of whom have AIDS.

He said it was hard to get used to how tactile they were, and added: "I was in a queue for dinner -- a cow carcass on the grass from which you took big chunks in blood to barbecue -- and you line up in a big chain of joined hands.

"Another officer came over to talk to me and the guy I was holding hands with, instead of moving, put his hands through the legs of the general to continue holding my hand. My hand was near his crotch but there was no amusement at all, although I found it very difficult to accept!

"For all their poverty, the people were so happy and so friendly."

The country's three million people speak English as a second language to Siswati, even though it was granted independence from Britain in 1968.

Sgt Eccles met the latest sovereign, King Mswati III, whose father had 76 wives and provided him with 215 children. In Swaziland, you can have as many wives as you want -- as long as you can support them.

He said: "It is such a poor country, but he had BMWs and police escorts.

"He was like a film star. He came out of the car and there was a man nearby constantly shouting how wonderful he was. Apparently, he is employed to do that and follows him everywhere. Imagine that! When I was introduced I had to look him in the eye and shake his hand while holding my left hand under my elbow in a humble gesture."

Before his latest visit, paid for by a £1,000 grant from the International Police Association, he is looking for an organisation to donate a laptop so he can present it to the Swaziland police. To help, call him on 01254 353604.