THIS week troubled Darwen Moorland High School revealed it was cracking down on school uniform. According to new headteacher Gareth Dawkins it is a sign of the school's "health" and something to be proud of.

Education Reporter CLARE COOK looks at the decades of changing school uniforms and checks out its lasting importance in the modern school day. . .

SECONDARY school pupils have spent decades pushing the rules of uniform to their limits and beyond.

Over the years youngsters have spent time each morning carefully rolling up their skirts, narrowing A-lines, shortening their school ties or trying to sneak past parents wearing trainers rather than regulation shoes.

There has always been a thread of rebellion in bending the 'institutions' rules not to mention a sense of fitting in with 'cool' peers if you manage to get away with the latest trend.

But the traditional school uniform is a quintessential part of British life -- the school emblematic blazer, stripey tie in school colours, and matching sports kit.

It sets us apart from our European counterparts who opt for the more casual approach of jeans and a T-shirt and keeps allegiance to a somewhat 'straight-laced' image.

The question is whether the end result of the modern day shortening and tightening of garments leaves students looking scruffier than ever.

Blackburn with Darwen Council's leader, Sir Bill Taylor, says the uniform rules at the 1960s comprehensive he attended in Birmingham had to be strictly adhered to.

He said: "We were expected to adhere to the standard school uniform which was regulation blazer, collar and tie, a v-neck sweater and grey flannel trousers.

"We were berated from deviating from it and once when I and my classmates wore our ties the wrong way we all ended up in detention."

Nightclub owner and LET columnist, Margo Grimshaw went to St Hilda's, proudly sporting a navy blue blazer and gym slip. She says today's students look scruffy and "betrayed an attitude to authority" but blamed teachers dressing down.

She said: "I am a big believer in uniforms because it is a real leveller. Even for men in tuxedos, you would never know if someone was a builder or a boss which is a good thing.

"But youngsters will always try and bend the rules. Children now look too scruffy and I blame a backdown in authority. When teachers stopped having to wear suits it sent a message to pupils that it was OK. The problem is it fails to prepare pupils for the real world of work and down grades education as a whole."

Parents are estimated to spend £178 per child on school uniforms alone -- a tidy sum if children are not buying in to the idea.

The tie in itself has seen a quasi-revolution in stylings. In some schools it is the trend for a 'fat front' while others opt for the 'thin'.

Darwen Moorland pupils have been told that ties should be 10 inches long. Head Mr Dawkins is desperate to stamp out a 'failing' ethos at the Holden Fold school since it was put into special measures -- with uniform high up on the hit list.

He said: "As an indicator of the state of a school, it is not the only thing, but it is usually not a bad one."

So how do schools notorious for their well-turned out students, do it.

At Ivy Bank Business College, Burnley, pupils started wearing a new navy blue school uniform this academic year which they helped design themselves - and have ditched ties and blazers all together. The uniform is a trendy combination of cardigans, overcoats, T-shirts and shirts. Moreover, it is a school-run business with every pupil at the Byron Street college having a financial share.

Pupils have helped design the uniform from scratch and helped put them into manufacture.

Head teacher Stephen Ball said: "It is much more fashionable and casual than the old traditional uniform which is the usual tie and blazer."

At Westholme School in Blackburn, students always look immaculate, with smart black heels and pencil skirts even at sixth form. Principal Lillian Croston said the key was pupils having pride in the school and what they wear.

Rossendale and Darwen MP, Janet Anderson, said: "I am right behind Mr Dawkins. School uniforms are very important."

Burnley MP Peter Pike, said: "I think it is a good idea because if everyone wears a uniform the rich children can't turn up in expensive designer gear that poorer families can't afford."

Hyndburn MP Greg Pope, said: "I am in favour of school uniform as long as it is sensible and suited to the needs of modern, young people. I can't see, for instance, why pupils should have to wear ties."