FORGET French cuisine, there's nothing to compare with the flavours of Lancashire.

That's the view of author Malcolm Greenhalgh, who is extolling the virtues of his home county in a new book which presents an affectionate and informative portrait of Lancashire's culinary traditions.

"I just don't understand why people aren't taking advantage of all the top quality food that is available literally on their doorsteps," said Malcolm. "I think it's partly because they don't realise it's there."

In his book - Flavours of Lancashire: The Food and Folk of the Old County - Malcolm writes about traditional Lancashire favourites including pikelets, brawn and black pudding.

"This book has been a real joy to write," he said.

"It all came about almost by accident. I have been working on a book about the Ribble, which is due out next year, but on my travels I kept seeing these fabulous farm shops and got talking to the people behind them. The idea of the book really came from that."

Malcolm has previously published numerous books on the environment and wildlife but this is his first foray into food.

And he believes there are some great similarities between the county and its food.

"Lancashire food is straightforward, hearty, well-cooked and wholesome, using great ingredients," he said. "Lancashire folk are similarly straightforward, warm-hearted and plain speaking.

"I really do believe that the county does offer the best food in the UK - not that fancy tackle you see on TV cookery programmes, where everything is covered in sauce to remove all the flavour."

Malcolm is clearly a traditionalist when it comes to his home county's cuisine.

"I recently saw someone on TV saying they made Lancashire hotpot with curry powder," said Malcolm. "That's just not right - and it's certainly not a hotpot."

Malcolm, 60, has travelled the length and breadth of the county seeking out suppliers.

"Because everyone goes to supermarkets these days we are all, in effect, eating the same good," he said. "But there is just so much more out there.

"I always get people saying that it will be more expensive to buy quality ingredients but it really isn't the case. Either that or they say they don't have time to prepare food and rely on convenience food.

"I just don't believe you don't have the time. Preparing a meal is really enjoyable. Pour yourself a glass of wine while you're cooking and enjoy the experience."

Although not a recipe book - "there are hundreds of Lancashire recipe books out there," he said - Malcolm does give plenty of tips on how to produce some classic Lancashire dishes including potato cakes, pigs' trotters and scrapple, a mixture of pork and oatmeal.

But it is the stories behind the dishes - and the fact that so many fine ingredients are available - that most intrigues him.

"It is a fabulous region for food," he said. "You've got Morecambe Bay shrimps, now there's a delicacy. Then there is the humble black pudding or a proper hotpot.

"In Lancashire we have farmers rearing some of the finest pork, beef and lamb in the country.

"It tastes wonderful and you know exactly where it has come from.

"You really don't need to look outside the county for anything."

For all his love of Lancashire food there is one traditional dish which Malcolm isn't a fan of.

"I've tried tripe but I'm afraid I just don't like it," he said.

"Having said that, I know plenty of people who love it."

Flavours of Lancashire by Malcolm Greenhalgh is available from bookshops or the publishers Palatine Books on 01524 840111, priced £10.