By Stephen White

There’s a town in the heart of Italy that has everything. Fascinating history, stunning scenery, fantastic food and world-class hospitality.

It’s close to Tuscany, but a million miles from the tourist hotspots of Florence, Siena and Pisa. An off-the-beaten-track treasure, just waiting to be discovered.

Welcome to the ancient town of Norcia, population 5,000, in Umbria. It’s the birthplace of St Benedict (480-547), father of western monasticism and the patron saint of Europe and students, and home to no fewer than 15 churches.

Devastating earthquakes have made their mark. Their frequency even led to an 18th-century law limiting buildings to two storeys, which means Norcia looks like no other town in the region.

But perhaps this Italian gem’s biggest attraction is its gorgeous food. Norcia is recognised as the black truffle capital of Italy, the source of the tastiest lentils, fine cheeses, and one of the best places for cured meats. Pork, wild boar, sausages, salamis and a huge range of specialties led to the town lending its name to a brand of Italian cuisine, norcineria.

My visit began with a two-and-a-half hour car journey from Rome which climbed steadily before arriving in Norcia.

I stayed at the fabulous Palazzo Seneca, built just off the square in the 16th century. Its narrow stone-floored passageways lead to huge, sumptuously-decorated rooms, including 19 elegant bedrooms and five luxurious suites, a library and a wellness centre.

Away from the hotel, you are can choose from activities including white-water rafting, helicopter flights and downhill or cross-country skiing while lovers of wildlife can visit the nearby stunning Sibillini National Park.

In Norcia, I had an appointment at the local monastery. The monks here follow St Benedict’s teachings of “ora et labora” prayer and work, rising at 4am. At 7.45pm, they assemble in the crypt of St Benedict’s Basilica to offer the final prayers of the day.

A limited number of visitors are allowed to join them and the service is both charming and slightly eerie.

The monks are accomplished brewers producing two interesting beers — a light Bionda (6%) and a dark Extra (a brain-numbing 10%).

Before I knew it, it was time to leave — a good excuse for a few farewell drinks.