By Tori Mayo
AS I look up at the towering buildings in Singapore’s thriving business district, and try to breathe through a thick blanket of humidity, there’s a tangible buzz in the air.
This thriving island city-state has come a long way from its swampy roots as a banana republic. In 1819, it became a British colony and — thanks to the help of statesman Sir Thomas Stamford Bingley Raffles — a pivotal trading post between Asia and the West.
Since gaining independence in 1965, Singapore’s star has only continued to rise.
Mangrove swamps have made way for a concrete jungle of condos, glitzy shopping malls and slick skyscrapers. The 19th century warehouses lining the Singapore River at Clarke Quay, where junks once moored, now play host to a merry mix of modern and traditional bars, clubs and restaurants.
Dempsey Hill, a leafy suburb where the British military were once based, is now an ultra-hip hang-out with army barracks converted into galleries.
But Singapore is by no means merely an urban metropolis.
Sentosa, just a quarter of a mile from the southern coast of the main island, is a green hub where stressed-out workers head for relaxation. This mini island (linked to the main island by a causeway and cable car) is largely covered in secondary rainforest, lizards roam free.
Attractions here include an historic fort, walking trails, two golf courses, the Universal Studios Singapore theme park and Sentosa beach.
Back on the mainland, Singapore’s old-world charm is also very apparent in the traditional architecture and local way of life. A microcosm of the Far Eastern world, the island is home to Chinese, Indian and Malay enclaves. Walking in Chinatown, I stumble into an area of low red-roofed buildings surrounded by imposing offices. A legacy from the late 18th century, these are shophouses built to house shopkeepers above their businesses. Their multicoloured elaborate facades continue to add character and charm to the cityscape.
Equally distinct in character is the vibrant, flower-festooned fiesta that is Little India. After purchasing an abundance of Indian bangles and a refreshing mango lassi, I find time for some preening at Queen’s Tailoring & Beauty Parlour. For five Singapore dollars my eyebrows are threaded while two seamstresses fashion garments in the cosy room.
Eating is a national pastime in Singapore and a visit wouldn’t be complete without sampling cuisine from the melting pot of flavours including Malay, Indonesian, Korean, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes.
Shopping is another obsession and locals used to do their shopping in open street markets, where shoe shiners and sugar cane vendors plied their trade. The first shopping arcade arrived in the 60s and now Orchard Road, Singapore’s most famous shopping street, is a maze of malls. British high street staples, Marks & Spencer, H&M and Topshop sell collections here in line with UK seasons, irrespective of the Far Eastern climate.
The locals, though, don’t seem too worried, as Singapore thrives on embracing variety.
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