Well, it is Christmas and here's the first of two wines that break through normal price barriers - but are more than a bit special.

It's from the St Chinian appellation in Languedoc region of southern France.

The grapes are 100 per cent Syrah or Shiraz and a 300-year-old family-owned winemaking concern has produced an excellently balanced, tasty, smooth red what is a real seasonal treat.

Syrah des Garriques 2005, £14.99, Marks and Spencer.