Anson Bolton, the Chef Patron at The Millstone, Mellor, shares culinary secrets and tales from his life in the kitchen.

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Chef Patron, The Millstone at Mellor

The essential ingredient(s) in any kitchen

On the food front, it’s salt! It’s easy to say we have to cut down on it, but if we cut down too much we’d get so many complaints about the food being bland. That said, we use fresh food so the only additives are what we add ourselves, the skill is minimizing our salt content whilst enhancing the taste and quality of the dish. And the other thing that stands out is a great work ethic, a team player and a cracking sense of humour.

The first kitchen I worked in

Smithills Coaching House in Bolton, I’m from a family of caterers. My two uncles founded the Coaching House in the late ‘60s so it was the family business where it all really began.

My first professional job

“Curtain Puller” at Smithills Coaching House on their themed nights. One theme was The Olde Time Music Hall and as an 11-year-old I was responsible for opening and closing the curtains after each act, but I wasn’t that good and would open the curtains when I should have been closing them! As soon as I was old enough they let me do veg prep and other odd jobs.

The first dish I prepared for service

On my first ‘proper’ day I was shown how to make Béchamel and Sauce Espagnol which were the base white and brown sauce for many of the dishes, from then I hit the big time and was allowed to put peas, mushrooms and choice of potato on the plate! It may sound simple, but 600 meals a service gets you waking in the middle of the night thinking ‘chips or jacket potatoes’!

The signature dish associated with me

I’ve been at the Millstone for 11 years now and introduced many popular dishes that have followed culinary trends, such as our seared scallops with black pudding, pea puree and parsley cream. However, the one dish I introduced from the start and has been ever present is duck spring rolls. I think the reason for their popularity is the fact that they’re freshly made and packed with duck meat.

My food philosophy

I worked for five years for P&O Cruise Lines and was selected for the new £350million cruise liner Oriana. The pressure was immense from preparing canapés for Lords and Ladies to actually meeting the Queen. After a choppy start, I thought we had cracked it, only to be told by the Head Chef: “You’re only as good as your last meal.” Consistency is vital. If you try and cut corners you’ll get found out.

My biggest kitchen disaster

Jack stacks! In the trade we use a large trolley which can hold up to 120 prepared plated dishes. As larder chef responsible for all the savoury cold produce, I’d just finished preparing the last 120 of 600 assiette of smoked salmon. The plates were on the jack stack wrapped in cling film so they wouldn’t fall off. Unfortunately, my kitchen porter at the time hadn’t replaced the grid in the drain and as I wheeled the trolley towards the fridge the whole thing went over! The camaraderie on board was really special though and when the laughing subsided everyone helped out.

My favourite chefs/biggest influences are

My first chef’s job away from the family business was at a town centre hotel. I was asked to make the stuffing for a Sunday roast, it then dawned on me that there was more to cooking than Paxo! The head chef took me under his wing. Also, on my travels I dined at Rockpool, a fusion restaurant in Sydney. The chef, Neil Perry was so far ahead of the game.

Away from the restaurant my favourite meal is

I holiday in France most years. The local markets and even supermarkets out there have a more rustic appeal. I always buy more than I set out to, but then it’s dad and lad BBQ time – so dining with my family is my food heaven.