Christmas food is the gift that keeps on giving, especially if you've bought a whopper of a turkey.

And for Nigel Slater, getting to grips with the leftovers is as much a part of festive tradition as roasting a goose and baking mince pies.

The cook and food writer loves the prospect of picking at the bones of his roast and transforming it into lunch the next day, whether the scraps end up in a stock, wrapped in a pastry crust, thrown into a frying-pan hash or incorporated into a sizzling curry.

In his new bookhe shares the secrets of his favourite ‘leftovers’.

CHRISTMAS BUBBLE AND SQUEAK (Makes enough for 4-6) 1kg potatoes, A quarter of a red cabbage, or 250g leftover cooked red cabbage, butter, oil or goose fat, 1tbsp red wine vinegar, an apple, cored and chopped, about 6 juniper berries, 250g goose or turkey trimmings.

If you are cooking from scratch, peel the potatoes, cut them into quarters, then boil in deep, salted water for 10-15 minutes. When they will easily take the point of a knife, drain them, then cover the pan with a cloth while the potatoes lose their steam. Mash thoroughly with a potato masher or use a food mixer fitted with the flat beater attachment.

Shred the cabbage coarsely and fry it in a little butter, oil or, better still, goose fat, until it starts to wilt. Add the vinegar and the chopped apple. Crush the juniper berries and stir them in. Leave to simmer, covered with a lid, for 15 minutes or so. Drain and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, stir the mashed potatoes, cooked red cabbage and the bits of goose or turkey meat together. Add a little stuffing if there is some to use up, and season generously.

Get a little butter or goose fat hot in a frying pan. Shape the mixture into small, thick patties and fry till pale gold, turning once to cook the other side.

Drain on kitchen paper, then transfer to a hot oven, about 200°C/GAS 6, for 45 minutes, until crisp and sizzling.

  • The Kitchen Diaries II by Nigel Slater is published by Fourth Estate, priced £30.